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Seeking a Unique Experience in Rio de Janeiro? Discover Rocinha with a Local: A Favela Tour
Ivana, August 2024
Rocinha, situated in the southern zone of Rio de Janeiro, is Brazil's largest favela, with an estimated population of over 100,000 people. During my tours, I've encountered guides who claimed the population is around 60,000, while others suggested it could be as high as 150,000. The truth is uncertain, as many residents are not officially registered, and there is no definitive census. Initially, I hesitated to bring visitors to the "Brazilian slums," concerned that I might expose them to scenes of poverty, beggars, and open drug dealing, where people walk around with shotguns. I doubted its safety. However, after experiencing several tours with different guides and routes, I discovered that Rocinha is far from the miserable and dangerous place I once imagined. This article will give you a deeper insight into what you can truly expect.
Located between the upscale neighborhoods of São Conrado and Gávea, home to the most prestigious American school for the elite, Rocinha is a vibrant community that defies stereotypes. A tour of Rocinha offers visitors a rare chance to see a different side of Rio de Janeiro—one rich in culture, history, and resilience. It’s the birthplace of new cultural movements, like Brazilian funk and dance styles, numerous social projects that uplift the community, and many samba schools.
What is a Favela?
Favelas are informal settlements that have developed over the years, often on the hillsides of Brazilian cities. According to recent data, the city of Rio de Janeiro alone is home to approximately 1,000 favelas, with the entire state of Rio de Janeiro hosting around 1,500. These neighborhoods are characterized by dense housing, narrow alleyways, and a strong sense of community among residents. Although favelas are often linked to poverty and crime, life for residents is relatively safe. I’ve seen many homes with doors wide open, and people relaxed outside, chatting with neighbors. As guide Gabriela explained, anyone caught stealing from their neighbors is evicted from the community. Brazilians often refer to favelas more accurately as “comunidades,” meaning communities. These communities are also hubs of thriving culture, innovation, and entrepreneurial spirit. Rocinha, in particular, stands out as a symbol of both the challenges and strengths of urban life in Brazil.
Yes, people live in simple, small houses connected by narrow alleyways that can feel claustrophobic. You’ll need to watch your step, as the stairs are uneven, and viralatas caramelos (stray dogs) don’t clean up after themselves. Residents receive free water from the state, purchase gas cans for cooking, and while some people pay for electricity and internet, others obtain these services through unofficial means. Despite this, having documentation from these providers allows them to function as full citizens of the city. The energy bill is a crucial piece of evidence showing your address for borrowing money, getting a mortgage, opening a bank account, or enrolling children in school.
Why Do Favelas Always Have the Best View?
Originally, the city center of Rio de Janeiro was located in the northern part of the city. There, you can still find the old houses and palaces that once served the Portuguese royal family, including King João VI, Emperor Pedro I and II, and Princess Isabel, until the monarchy ended and Brazil became a republic.
In the 20th century, as Rio de Janeiro expanded into its then-empty southern area, construction workers building the beautiful structures and hotels in Ipanema and Copacabana, as well as those working on tunnels, couldn’t afford to spend two days commuting from the North Zone. Instead, they settled on the nearby hillsides, creating basic homes close to their work sites. While today the drive from the northern part of the city to the South Zone takes 30-40 minutes on a highway, back then, the journey would have taken two days on foot. Additionally, many people who originally had simple homes in these areas were displaced by upscale urban developments, forcing them to resettle on the mountains, which were still largely unoccupied and free. As some began moving in, others followed, leading to the growth of these hillside communities.
Today, if you sit at Arpoador in Ipanema during sunset, you’ll witness the striking contrast on the Two Brothers mountain. On one side, you’ll see the five-star hotels of Leblon and the famous Ipanema beach, where even Marlon Brando filmed scenes for "The Man from Rio." On the other side of the mountain, you’ll see a universe of stars—the lights of the favela—creating a stunning contrast against the orange sunset, silhouetting the mountain as night falls.
Do Kids Go to School in Favelas?
For the approximately 10,000 school-age children in Rocinha, there are only 6 public schools as of 2024. These schools divide the day into three periods to accommodate different groups of students, with classes often reaching 60-100 kids per teacher. Clearly, the children don’t have enough time or space to receive a proper education.
One thing that surprised me was the absence of beggars. Favelas are not a place for them. The church and the community work together to redistribute clothing and provide basic food to those in need. During my last tour, 6-year-old Rafael saw an opportunity to speak with us and our guide, Gabriela, and asked for some money. Gabriela immediately stopped him, reminding him not to beg from tourists, and she dug deeper into her backpack to find a coin. The church in the community discourages such behavior, as they don’t want to turn children into professional beggars. Instead, they aim to raise responsible kids who can earn money in other ways.
While there still be such big social differences, money earning conditions, access to education, safe and housing health care and public transport, we won't see a huge development towards ending this social injustice. The problem of favelas, guns, drugs is much more complex and needs to be solved by planning and investments in many different levels. Let’s keep in mind also corruption and friendly money based relationship between army, lobbies, police, government, drug dealers that is looking over the profit more towards individuals and organizations than solving actual favela problem.
Favelas: Where Police Cannot Enter
Now you can understand why two vastly different social classes live in such close proximity. Imagine you belong to the wealthy society of Rio de Janeiro. You drive a luxury car, live an upscale life, and pay taxes on your house. Yet, your poorer neighbors in the favelas occupy some of the most beautiful locations with stunning views. They don’t pay property taxes, might have pirated internet or electricity, and you might feel a sense of social injustice. But believe me, they feel the social injustice too. This tension is at the root of many pickpocketing incidents and robberies that occur outside the favelas, often in tourist areas.
Historically, in the 20th and 21st century, there was significant conflict between the police and favela residents as the authorities tried to impose order. However, with the vast population living in favelas, it quickly became clear that forcing them to leave was impossible. The city eventually accepted that these communities would remain. To maintain peace and avoid civil war, the police largely stopped entering the favelas, agreeing instead on basic infrastructure, housing standards, water and sewage systems, health centers, trash collection, and schools, all managed by local community organizations with financial help from the city and the state. These organizations represent the people within the city and state.
Drugs weren’t always a part of Brazilian life; it was in the 1970s that the Italian mafia saw an opportunity in the Brazilian market while trafficking from Colombia to Europe. Today, Rocinha has, in addition to the community organization, real leader—35-year-old Johnny Bravo, known as the "owner of the mountain" and head of drug trafficking in Rocinha. Under his leadership, Rocinha is relatively safe for both residents and tourists who visit through travel agencies that adhere to the rules. While walking down the hill at lunchtime, you might see a few tables selling drugs provided by this narcotics organization, and in the evening, even more. Just avoid making pictures, someone from the Johny's group is looking at you, if you are adhering to the rules.
Generally, the police maintain a visible presence around the city, with flashing lights and patrol cars. When the city was preparing for the 2014 World Cup and the 2016 Olympics, the army and marines supported the regular police and then stayed on the streets to ‘occupy’ liberated areas. This forced the criminal gangs to retreat and hide, creating a temporary sensation of peace. However, it’s not feasible to keep the military patrolling the streets indefinitely. As soon as the military withdraws, the gangs return and resume their activities. After these major events, everything returned to the status quo.
As long as there are such vast social disparities, inequities in earning potential, access to education, safe housing, healthcare, and public transportation, we won’t see significant progress in ending this social injustice. The problems of favelas, guns, and drugs are far more complex and require planning and investment at many different levels. We must also consider the corruption and financial relationships between the army, lobbies, police, government, and drug dealers, which often prioritize individual and organizational profits over solving the real issues faced by favelas.
Lately after the Madonna concert, when they counted income, they found out that the social injustice could be solved with more events like this that would help to fund the investment. But would the money find a place to solve these social differences or would it stay in the hands of the wealthy? That is the question I have no answer to.
The Favela Tour Experience: What to expect?
A guided tour of Rocinha offers an in-depth look at life in the favela, allowing visitors to experience the daily realities of its residents. The tours are typically led by local guides, many of whom have grown up in Rocinha and can provide personal insights into the community's history, challenges, and achievements.
Walking Through the Community:
- The tour usually begins with a walk through Rocinha's bustling streets, where you'll see a mix of homes, shops, and local businesses. The vibrant street art, colorful buildings, and lively markets create a dynamic atmosphere that is a stark contrast to the more touristy areas of Rio.
Visiting Local Businesses:
- Visitors often have the chance to stop by local businesses, such as bakeries, handicraft shops, and art studios. These businesses are vital to Rocinha's economy and showcase the creativity and resourcefulness of its residents. We stop at some nice viewpoint on the top, for you to get a perfect view of the community and settlements. You might even get to try some traditional Brazilian snacks or purchase locally made souvenirs.
Meeting the People:
- One of the highlights of the tour is meeting the people who call Rocinha home. Whether it's chatting with a local artist, visiting a community center, or hearing stories from residents, these interactions offer a deeper understanding of the community's spirit and resilience.
Exploring Social Projects:
- Many tours include visits to social projects that focus on education, art, and sports. Many times I had an opportunity to see Capoeira clubs performing this unique Brazilian martial art. These initiatives play a crucial role in improving the quality of life in Rocinha and offer hope and opportunities for future generations. Seeing these projects in action is inspiring and underscores the importance of grassroots efforts in creating positive change.
Do You Have Ethical Considerations?
When participating in a favela tour, it's crucial to approach the experience with respect and an open mind. Favelas are not tourist attractions but real communities with complex histories and challenges. Choose tours that are run by local guides and businesses, ensuring that the economic benefits go back to the community. Be mindful of photography, and always ask for permission before taking pictures of people or their homes. If your guide asks you not to take a photo at a particular moment, there's a reason—drug dealers and those carrying guns don’t want to be photographed. If you accidentally include them in a photo and they ask to see your phone, do not resist; they aren’t trying to steal your phone, but rather to delete the photo of themselves.
The Impact of Favela Tours
Favela tours can have a positive impact by promoting cultural exchange and raising awareness about the realities of life in these communities. They also contribute economically, supporting local businesses and social projects. However, it’s crucial to choose tours that are conducted ethically, with the community’s consent and involvement.
If you’re interested in taking such a tour, feel free to contact me. I can connect you with reliable guides in Rocinha or Santa Marta.
I Don’t Want to Do a Walking Tour in a Favela, But I Want to Do Something Else There
Sure! I have options for you: Hiking or a Favela Night Party with a Tour Guide.
Hike to Two Brothers Mountain
This is a moderate hike, taking about 45 minutes to 1 hour, leading to beautiful mountains with a perfect view over Ipanema. The hike begins at the favela Vidigal, where you’ll need to take a moto-taxi. Feel free to contact me for more details.
Favela Night Party with a Tour Guide
Would you like to experience something completely different in the middle of the night? Each weekend, and often during Carnaval, there’s a favela party organized by local groups. I can arrange a responsible tour guide who will ensure your safety throughout the event.
Whether you choose to admire the shining lights of the favela from afar, or decide to experience a hike, tour, or party, please follow the recommendations of the locals or guides. There’s no need to be afraid; just follow the rules, and you’ll be fine.
A favela tour in Rocinha opened my eyes. After watching the famous Brazilian movie City of God, you might think that favelas are just chaotic places full of guns, drugs, thieves, and beggars. However, visiting Rocinha offers a unique and eye-opening experience, providing insights into the resilience, creativity, and vibrant culture of Rio de Janeiro’s favela communities. By choosing a responsible and respectful tour, visitors can gain a deeper understanding of the complexities of life in Rocinha while supporting the community’s development and growth.
Are you ready to visit Rocinha favela in Rio de Janeiro?
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